From Akharas To Rooftops – The Enduring Passions Of Lahoris

Wrestling, pigeons and kites are traditional pastimes that survived the test of time, rooted deeply in the city's streets and mohallas

From Akharas To Rooftops – The Enduring Passions Of Lahoris

Lahore has long been the epicentre of pastimes and sports, and many of them have stood the test of time. In the book, "Wrestlers, Pigeon Fanciers, And Kite Flyers: Traditional Sports and Pastimes in Lahore," Jurgen Wasim Frembgen and his co author, Paul Rollier, drawing on extensive field research, reveal the reasons behind the rise and fall of wrestling in Lahore, the declining number of pigeon fanciers in the city and the never dying affection of Lahoris for kite flying.

Wasim is an anthropologist and professor of history and culture at the University of Munich and has a number of notable works to his name. He has also served as a visiting professor at Quaid e Azam University and the National College of Arts. Rollier, on the other hand, has a PhD in social anthropology and conducts research on "the democratic culture and power in South Asia". Before them, Pran Nevile explored the passion among Lahorias vis-à-vis kite flying in his book Lahore: A Sentimental Journey, while Majid Sheikh, from time to time, chronicled Lahori pigeon fanciers, kite flyers and pehlwaans in his weekly columns for Dawn and in his book Lahore: Tales Without End . The book in question builds upon the seminal works of Nevile and other writers and researchers and highlights the current state of these sports and pastimes through the authors' on the ground research in the labyrinthine streets and mohallas of the Walled City.

As is evident from the title, the book has been divided into three sections, dealing with each sport and pastime separately and in detail. The opening chapter focuses on the bodies of the wrestlers and the rich diet they need to build and maintain their vigour and stamina. Rudimentary terms like Kushti (wrestling), Akhara (desi gymnasium) and others are explained within the proper local context. Relying on sources such as Akbarnama, Ain-i- Akbari and Baburnama, the authors claim that the sport existed and flourished during the Mughal era through the patronage of the kings. Given the rich diet and rigorous exercise regimen pehlwaans are required to follow, it can be easily comprehended that this sport could not survive sans the patronage of wealthy people. They explain, "there has been a system of patronage by local rajas, sardars, khans and chaudhrys for centuries." According to them, kings of the bygone era supported pehlwaans to demonstrate their might and strength to their rivals.

The pastime of pigeon flying dates back centuries; even the Mughal Emperor Akbar had more than 20,000 pigeons, finding that their dervish-like flight inspired him in his prayers

Just like in any other sport, wrestlers are not made on their own and need mentors, or Ustads, to guide them. Among the wrestlers and Ustads, the one who wields authority and power is a "Khalifa". Towards the middle of this section, we get to know that "the title of khalifa is bestowed on a particularly successful wrestler after his active career as an ustad." The wrestlers revere their masters to such an extent that they begin their kushtis only after taking permission from their ustads. There was a time when Lahori pehlwaans were known across the globe for their unparalleled strength. But in recent years, as the authors highlight, the International Olympic Committee changed the rules of the game, which worked against Pakistani wrestlers and prevented them from qualifying for international competitions.  They claim that the move was aimed at benefitting the West.

The second section explores in detail the origin of the pastime of pigeon flying and the caste system through which pigeons are categorised according to their traits and birthplaces. This pastime dates back centuries and is practised in many countries. The book highlights that the Mughal Emperor Akbar had more than twenty thousand pigeons and "the dervish like flight of his pigeons inspired him in his prayers". In the subcontinent, cities like Lucknow, Delhi, Lahore and Multan are famous for their pigeon enthusiasts. One view from the rooftop of any Lahori chhat (roof) is enough to tell that pigeon fanciers continue to exist in the megacity, though they are fewer in number nowadays. Large outdoor aviaries placed on or attached to rooftops indicate that the inmates include passionate pigeon fanciers.

The authors claim that there are over one lakh pigeon fanciers in Lahore alone. This pastime is quite addictive and those who rear and train pigeons are overly consumed by their devotion to the birds. They have to make their mark by winning competitions so that they can come under the tutelage of Ustads through shagirdagi (apprenticeship). The book underscores another issue: pigeon fanciers spend their days and nights in the company of pigeons, apart from devoting considerable resources to this pastime, and this earns them a bad name in society.

Then comes the third section, which deals with the techniques, intricacies, craftsmanship and fundamentals of kite flying, the most cherished pastime of Lahoris. The book highlights that though this pastime traces its roots to China, it is in Lahore that it continues to be celebrated with pomp and show to this day. It is perhaps the only pastime enjoyed by everyone, with rare exceptions. The book shows that while poets like Mirza Asadullah Khan Ghalib and Nazir Akbarabadi composed couplets about this pastime, the Lahori saint Shah Hussain "invoked" the image of the kite and the string to symbolise his relationship with his Creator.  The Lahori painter Aijaz Anwar has painted the Basant festival extensively. During Basant, this pastime reaches its zenith, making the vast sky appear festooned with thousands of colourful buntings. The recent Basant in Lahore stands witness to the abiding love and enthusiasm of Lahoris for their favourite pastime.

The addition of photographs of pehlwaans in action, pigeon fanciers tending to their birds and kite flyers celebrating Basant in colourful kurtas makes the book a feast for the eyes. The book, in short, is nothing less than a treat for Lahoris and serves as a valuable guide for those interested in learning about the sports and pastimes of Lahore.

The writer is a storyteller and literary critic. He may be reached at usama.malick183 @gmail.com