Twice a month on Fridays, I feel a longing to visit Lahore for various purposes and make it a point to go to Anarkali Bazaar, Urdu Bazaar, and try new fascinating cafés and restaurants to savour cuisines, purchase books, and enlighten myself. Each time I come here, I'm curious to discover what new experiences Lahore will offer. As soon as you enter Old Anarkali Bazaar after leaving the Orange Line Station, your gaze falls upon food eateries on either side, as well as pre-loved clothing and shoe shops at the end of it.
This is what brings me to my first pit stop: Hafiz Fruit and Juice Corner, a famous spot at the end of Old Anarkali, popular among students, visitors, tourists, and rovers, where I mostly sit and refresh myself. This decades-old establishment, founded in 1960, serves its patrons various kinds of refreshments such as fruit shakes, pani puris, and chana chaat. What I love most is its pani puri (water balls) served with chilled tamarind water — so unique and pungent in taste that it's both refreshing and invigorating. You take a gulp, and the very next moment you will feel like you have contracted a cough. This is probably the best tamarind drink (khatta pani) you'll ever savour in Lahore. After some time, the next refreshment I enjoy is its shake of my choice, and the best part is that ordering one glass gets you a half-glass complimentary — great value for money.
Lahore is a melting pot of talent, where individuals from diverse backgrounds come together to showcase their skills. The city offers a wealth of experiences that cater to various interests, guaranteeing something to ignite your curiosity and inspire your mind. For instance, art lovers can visit Tollinton Market, located to the left at the end of Old Anarkali Bazaar, as well as the National College of Arts (NCA). Upon entering, a world of unique paintings by various artists awaits, compelling observers to ponder the creative process behind each piece. If you want something classical to watch or wish to harken to a mushaira, or even if you possess an eristic disposition, you can visit the Alhamra Art Council, which is also near the Tollinton Market on the Mall Road. You can take an auto or reach there by ambling on foot. The best time to visit the Art Gallery and NCA in summer is around 5 p.m., and for Hafiz Fruit and Juice Corner, it is around 6 p.m., when the heat relents, making you perspire less and feel more relaxed. As you step out of the venue and plan your next destination, the weather becomes pleasant; the sun sets, darkness descends, and a gentle breeze picks up.
Lahore is not just an ancient city or a destination but a world and a mystery unto itself
As you cross the road and continue gallivanting from Old to New Anarkali, you'll notice many pre-partition eyesores in disrepair, crumbling and decaying in both Old and New Anarkali, which require immediate refurbishment due to their potential impact on safety and aesthetics. Just before entering the gate of New Anarkali, you'll find S. Mohkam-ud-Din and Sons Bakers, a 145-year-old bakery located a few shops to the right. Much has been written about this bakery, so I'll spare the details.
What's new I can tell you is about its proprietor, Mohkam Sahib — an elderly man who appears older but remains youthful at heart. He's below average height, yet spry, engaging, and affable. If you visit his bakery, strike up a conversation with him; he'll offer you a cup of tea and regale you with stories, interesting experiences from his youth, as well as tales about his family's generations-old business. His biscuits, specially prepared for Christmas, are worth tasting.
What? Tea? Of course, how can I forget? How is it possible to be in Lahore and not talk about hot brew? Tea is one of Pakistanis' most cherished drinks. To assuage this strong desire, let me take you back to Old Anarkali, to a tea establishment a few shops behind Hafiz Juice Corner, run by conscientious and indefatigable Pathans. This establishment offers the best tea 24/7 in the area, but there's no comfy seating due to outdoor seating restrictions by the Punjab Government. You can opt for a takeaway cup and enjoy your piping hot tea while strolling through the bazaar. The first sip of this strong tea (karak chai) will soothe your exhaustion, making you feel relaxed in seconds.
Lahore pulsates with the heartbeats of Lahoris, sharing its stories far and wide and becoming immortal through those who transmit them on. As you rove through the inner parts of Old Lahore, the city's ancient streets and wynds weave a complex tapestry, where one bazaar blends seamlessly into another, creating a labyrinthine network with no apparent dead ends. Whoever designed this city did so intentionally, ensuring its enduring spirit. Perhaps it is the very beauty and mystery that remain unravelled even after centuries have passed. With a history spanning over 2,000 years, according to Sir Robert Montgomery, Lahore's significance grew between the 2nd and 4th century. Legend has it that the city's name originates from Lavapuri, or "City of Lava," founded by Prince Lava, son of Sita and Rama.
If you happen to be in this locality and are having trouble deciding where to dine, I would recommend two dinner options. For fast food enthusiasts, Café Euphoria near Pak Tea House is a must-visit. This air-conditioned café, with its striking right red brick wall blended with white linings in the middle, features portraits of prominent writers, poets and literati, while the left wall is emblazoned with flamboyant mural painting, transporting you into another world and making you feel very homely. Its signature pizza, Euphoria's Special, outrivals many big pizza food chains both in taste and quality. The soft dough and flavourful cheese melt smoothly on your tongue, allowing flavours to linger on the taste buds.
The other standout eatery for BBQ and rice lovers is Master Biryani on the Mall Road near Hall Road. This eatery is air-conditioned yet cramped, making you wait for your turn. Its signature biryani is spicy yet flavourful, and its BBQ is incredibly delectable. As soon as you receive your order, the aroma wafts up from the sizzling food, whetting your appetite even more, and compelling you to dig in.
Finally, after dinner and satiating all my yearnings, it was time to bid Lahore farewell and head home. As I strolled back towards the Orange Line Station, the night thickened into darkness, and shops began to close. Meanwhile, a bike rider came from behind, honking his horn repeatedly — "pee pee" — compelling people to give way. What a paradox! A nation that's always in a hurry but never reaches on time. Each visit to this city reveals something new, compelling visitors to return. Lahore is not just an ancient city or a destination but a world and a mystery unto itself. Under Punjab Chief Minister Maryam Nawaz's leadership and vision, Lahore is evolving, becoming cleaner, more beautiful and more organised, regaining its former glory. Eventually, my train arrived, and I boarded it. It had indeed been a visit of note.