With the recent turn of events in Afghanistan, I wanted to share the experiences of someone who had lived there at a time no one can imagine today.
That someone happens to be my mother. Listening to her share her experiences living in Kabul in the 1960s breaks a lot of misconceptions about the people and Afghan society. The article is based on my conversation with Abidah Qazi, whose father, the late Gen. Mohammad Yusuf Khan, was Pakistan’s Ambassador to Afghanistan from 1963-1968.
My father, the late General Mohammad Yusuf Khan, went as Pakistan’s Ambassador after a long hiatus of a representative there. He spoke Pashto and Farsi. Knowing the language immediately created a connection with Afghan officials and royalty. I learnt Farsi while I lived in Kabul and knowing Pashto helped.
I remember the Afghans as friendly, outdoorsy at all levels. On weekends, families would go out and cook barbecues or have a simple picnic on the mountains with their families. They were fun, happy people. A sense of freedom pervaded everyday life despite the abject poverty.
Initially, I did not have many friends when I was there. That’s when my interest in art and painting started and evolved. I remember being inspired by the mountains. Later, I made a number of Afghan friends and we used to visit each other’s homes. Young people then were very progressive. French and German were also spoken widely by a certain socio-economic class. Some Afghans spoke English because they had been to university abroad and the local American School.
The locals were fond of their King Zahir Shah. I recall an incident where we were in the traffic and lots of locals were standing by the roadside and clapping. Our driver stopped to ask what was happening. King Zahir Shah was in a car driving himself and people were happily stopping to see him. There was a connection between him and his people. Afghans by and large found him to be a down to earth and magnanimous ruler.
My parents and I had the honour of being invited to the Palace for a private dinner, where King Zahir Shah and Queen Humera hosted us very graciously. Queen Humera was the epitome of true Afghan hospitality. I’ll never forget the rich Afghan cuisine we were served that evening. The variety of Afghan Pulao was amazing.
Kabul was a shopping haven for Pakistanis and entertainment such as Bollywood movies were very popular. Many Afghans enjoyed these movies despite not knowing Hindi (or Urdu). It was the songs and the music that created a connection.
Kabul was a shopping haven for Pakistanis and entertainment such as Bollywood movies were very popular. Many Afghans enjoyed these movies despite not knowing Hindi (or Urdu). It was the songs and the music that created a connection.
Afghans generally were a cultured people who also enjoyed classical music and encouraged our Pakistani artists to participate in the Jashn-e-Kabul, an annual event where regional artists and musicians were invited to perform. It lasted for ten days.
Pakistani artists like Noor Jehan, Farida Khanum, Mehdi Hasan, Nazakat Ali and Salamat Ali were particularly well liked. Afghans were great connoisseurs of music, especially the royal family.
In the heart of Kabul, there was a popular restaurant ironically called Khyber Restaurant; and to our amusement, located near Pushtunistan Squar. It was a popular place, and menu carried everything from Afghan Pulao, kebabs to baclawa.
Afghan women were working in offices, going to university, and studying medicine and engineering. Going to school was not a hindrance for them. However, society was conservative, and some women did wear head scarves, but they were progressive thinking.
Young girls had all kinds of ambitions and freedom was encouraged. The elites spoke German and French. There was development happening on a scale due to all the aid that was pouring in.
Kabul was a city that attracted people from our part of the world. There was so much history there and I remember the Bamiyan Buddha statues which was a UNESCO World Heritage Site sadly destroyed. Emperor Babar is also buried in Kabul. When I look back today, I cherish the memories that were then and how history has been cruel to the Afghans because of their strategic location.
Great memory thst needs to be preserved because they represent hope when reading through the lines. Thanks for sharing. I pray Afghans find that hope to restore their lost glory. Well written Maha.