It was almost dark, with clouds on the horizon and a slight breeze blowing. Everyone except I had packed their rods, when on almost my last cast, I felt the massive tug and rush of a fish and instinctively knew by the sheer force that I had hooked on to a Mahseer. An indescribable joy and fear at the same time (of not wanting to lose the fish) surged through my brain. I held on for dear life – letting the fish play and tire itself out. Finally I landed a beautiful 12-pound Mahseer and could not believe my eyes when I saw such a beautiful fish after almost 40 years.
How did this happen?
Poonch River National Park (PRNP)
With the success of the Himalayan Wildlife Foundation in saving the Brown Bear, Dr. Anis and Mr. Zakria teamed up with Dr. Rafique, an eminent expert on fish in Pakistan who encouraged the two to look into the saving of the Mahseer fish – which also happened to be Pakistan’s national fish, much like our national animal is the Markhor.
Dr. Rafique informed the duo that the Mahseer fish was almost extinct in Pakistan but there were a few pockets of the fish on the Poonch River. The water temperature and breeding grounds were conducive to the survival of the species. But the indiscriminate killing of the fish, destruction of the small streams where they lay their eggs in the gravel beds and population pressures were destroying what was left. Yet there was a chance – if they could do something about it, our national fish could be saved.
After hectic efforts of over three years with the usual turf wars and bureaucratic hurdles, the entire length of the Poonch River was declared on the 15th of December 2010 as the first ever aquatic protected area for a globally threatened fish species, the Himalayan Golden Mahseer Fish (Tor Puttitora). The Poonch River National Park extends for approximately 100 kilometers and starts from the Palak bridge just as the river enters the Mangla Dam and extends to the Tetri Note crossing on the border between Indian-administered and Azad Kashmir. Five different nullahs or small waterways fall into the Poonch River on its 100-km journey.
A 30-pound Mahseer – sheer power
The park is divided into two zones (north and south) the South Zone from Palakbridge to Thalir bridge and the North Zone from Thalir bridge to the border. It was understandable that educating the teeming masses about conservation along the 100km length was going to be an uphill task, especially since the local people considered the Poonch River as their OWN and they could do as they pleased in it.
Not only was convincing the government of Azad Jammu and Kashmir to declare the river a national park for one species of fish an uphill task, but it was also a significant challenge to find sustainable funding to protect it. After all, in a national park, no fishing or any other commercial activity – including dredging of stones and sand – was going to be allowed. This meant there would be a lot of ruffling of feathers of big businesses and local politicians tied up with the construction industry.
Under the agreement, the dam construction could only proceed if it could be proved that the project would lead to a 'net gain' for the river ecology and fauna. Hats off to the management of the Mira Power Company that they agreed to fund the project
The perseverance and tenacity of Mr. Zakria and Dr. Anis and their team ultimately bore fruit from an unexpected quarter. On the Poonch, a 100-megawatt dam was to be constructed by the Mira Power Company of South Korea, in a small village called Gulpur. It was to be named the Gulpur Hydroelectric Dam. In the construction of the dam, the donors insisted on an environmental assessment of the river and surrounding areas. The contract was given to the Himalayan Wildlife Foundation, which convinced the donor agencies that unless funds were set aside for the preservation of the Mahseer fish, it would become extinct.
Under the agreement, the dam construction could only proceed if it could be proved that the project would lead to a ‘net gain’ for the river ecology and fauna. Hats off to the management of the Mira Power Company that they agreed to fund the project helping the preservation of the Mahseer. The funding helped provide for the resources needed to patrol the whole length of the river and contain the illegal commercial activities so prevalent in the area. Now no commercial activity would be allowed. But sports fishing with licenses from the wildlife department would be allowed – which would help the local community, as they would be responsible for the stoppage of any illegal activity.
How to catch the Mahseer
Patience, observation, perseverance, the touch of a musician and, most of all, an insatiable ambition to learn are the major attributes for a successful Mahseer fisherman.
The Mahseer itself has certain characteristics which are essential to understand for the angler. It likes clear water – the clearer the better. The rougher the water, the more the Mahseer likes it. Thunder or rain may not be a deterrent for the fish to feed. They can be taken in winter, summer, spring and fall seasons. The size of the fish does not dictate the size of the lure: huge fish over 20 pounds will take a small fly and a spirited one- pounder will take a four-inch spoon. The chief characteristic of the Mahseer is the first rush. When it strikes, its first instinct is to get the lure out of its mouth. So expect a huge splash as the fish jumps out of the water and 50 to 100 yards of your line being taken away, especially if it is a strong fish in strong currents.
The fish spawn more than once a year. They travel upstream and then go into small streams to lay their eggs, which are in the thousands. The fingerlings grow up in the small streams and as adolescents come into the main river. As they grow bigger they have tremendous power in their jaws, so hooks have to be extremely strong to bear the crushing force when they strike. The three artificial baits are the spoons, spinners and plugs. The Mahseer will take any of the three, along with natural foods like Ata, frogs and insects.
Hanging on for dear life – little fisherman, big fish. Dr. Anis ur Rahman may be seen in the background
Mahseer love to feed in fast flowing rivers and streams. Rapids are a favourite spot around huge and small boulders, especially the area just above a rapid or just below it, as the water smoothens out. Once hooked, expect a massive rush towards the rapids and hold on for dear life. Do not ever attempt to hurry your fish! Let it play, as the Mahseer will not come easily. Hold on to your temptation to drag the fish out.
It is important to know a few facts about the Mahseer and other game fish. Human beings have senses like that of touch, sight, sound, hearing and taste. The sight for fish is secondary to feel. Water does not have any compressibility; therefore any displacement sets up a pressure wave. These waves are detected by fish, which have special organs that are contained in the area called the Lateral Line. This line in the Mahseer is on the side of the fish in the junction between the top dark part of the fish and the bottom golden part – and is visible as slightly darker-coloured scales. Thus any movement in the water, be it walking or dropping a lure, will attract the fish by detection of the compressed wave. Fish also have vision and a sense of smell.
Habitat of the Mahseer – clear cold water cascading down the Gulpur dam
The mighty rush of the Masheer
As the Mahseer grow bigger, they have tremendous power in their jaws. So hooks have to be extremely strong to bear the crushing force when they strike
Fishing for the Mahseer on the Poonch River: a great outing for family and friends
The Poonch River National Park has developed plans for sports fishing and family entertainment. Families can now book rest-houses, or tents pitched on the river with exceptional facilities, and spend the day fishing or just enjoying nature. The drive from Islamabad takes about three hours and from Mangla Dam about two hours to reach Kotli. All along the river, there are now certain designated spots for family outings to spend an enjoyable weekend.
In the month of March 2018, we spent a good three weekends just below the Gulpur dam and were able to hook, land and release almost 30 Mahseers – the biggest being almost 45 pounds. The population of the fish has taken an unprecedented jump with excellent sports fishing opportunities. Thanks go to the untiring efforts and persistence of Dr. Anis and Mr. Zakria and their whole team at the Himalayan Wildlife Foundation, our national fish has returned with a roar from almost being extinct.
Anglers and fishermen from all over Pakistan must avail this fantastic opportunity.
Fishing season starts from the 1st of September and will continue until April. This area of Azad Jammu and Kashmir is beautiful, the people are extremely hospitable and in coming over to this beautiful part of Pakistan, we help in a small way in preserving our national heritage for future generations. Camping facilities along the river front with scenic sites for the whole family are available for an enjoyable and relaxing weekend.
