When considering the wide variety of cuisines to be found in Pakistan, the role of Sindh and its culinary traditions cannot be overstated. This is true especially when it comes to the preparation and consumption of fish. The consumption of fish caught from rivers and lakes is popular throughout Pakistan – where ever it is possible and affordable. The Indus, as it flows through Sindh on its way to the sea, has historically offered a wide variety to choose from: Damra, Palla, Malli, Morakhi, Khaga, Silver fish, Thaila and many others.
For Sindhis, traditionally, perhaps the most desirable fish is Palla. And for many in Pakistan, this fish is iconic of the culinary delights that Sindh has to offer. The Palla is a fish which swims against the current of water and enters the River Indus from the ocean. Before the construction of barrages, the Palla was available in large quantities in the markets and, therefore, was the obvious first choice of Sindhi people.
The problem for a family looking to eat this fish today is the cost - which has gone up to Rs. 3,500 for a Palla weighing around 1 kg
After the construction of the Sukkur and Kotri barrages – which have become a hurdle for the Palla to cross – the fish is now available mostly in Hyderabad. There, too, it is so costly that only the richest can afford to purchase it. According to elderly fishermen who I meet, when there were no barrages on the Indus, the Palla used to travel a long way upstream from the ocean to reach Sukkur and thus was easily available in the market at a very low price. But after the construction of barrages, less water is being released downstream to Kotri. And thus the Palla only travels to the River Indus during the monsoon season, when ample water is released downstream of Kotri barrage, providing a waterway for the fish.
The choice of fish preferred can vary from community to community. Sindhi people mostly like to eat Damra, Thaila, Palla and Khaga. But communities other than Sindhis prefer to eat Malli, Morakhi and Khaga, because these fish have fewer bones as compared to the Damra, Thaila and Palla. In fact, the Palla, in particular, is known to have lots of bones. But when cooked properly its taste is divine and therefore Sindhi families traditionally love it.
The problem for a family looking to eat this fish today is its cost. The price has gone up to Rs. 3,500 for a Palla weighing around one kilogram, while smaller ones are available for Rs. 2,000 per piece. Qadir Bux Mallah, also known as Mama Qadir, recalls the time when Palla weighing more than one kilogram was available in the market for just Rs. 50, whilst bigger ones were sold for Rs. 75 apiece.
Gutting and cleaning a Damra fish
“My late mother used to cook it on steam,” he recalls. And he remembers the recipe. A grill made of thin wood was placed in a big utensil, half filled with water. When the water start boiling, the Palla fish – already marinated in a mix of spices in ghee – was placed on the grill. The utensil was covered properly. After that, his mother would lift the cover to examine the fish from time to time and when it was fully cooked, she would take it out and place on a big platter. It was served with chopped onion and flatbread. “It was really a mouthwatering recipe!” he says, unable to help himself from licking his lips.
Besides this, he tells me, he also saw Palla fried in a little oil. “And sometimes, my mother used to deep-fry it in a frying pan. The fact is that Palla always tasted great, no matter how it was cooked.” He says the aroma was so quick to spread that the entire neighbourhood came to know immediately about Palla being cooked in the area. “Kadey waya uhey denh…” he sighs deeply. Where have those days gone?
“Now only the richest can purchase Palla. The price is very high,” he says. “And the Palla being sold today for Rs. 3,500 is nothing as compared to the Palla which we used to buy for Rs. 50 only.”
Nor is the consumption of fish – Palla or otherwise – preferred by everyone.
I speak to a housewife Shabnam about the matter. She avoids cooking fish due to its ‘strong smell’, which, according to her, doesn’t go away even after she washes her hands with soap. “My husband and children like to eat chicken and therefore chicken is the main food in my house, she says. “I like eating fish, when someone in the neighbourhood sends fried fish,” she adds. “But my husband and children never eat it, due to its bones.”
Another housewife Ruqia likes to eat Malli and Khaga fish, which contains fewer bones. She tells me: “We cook fish in curry and sometimes we fry Malli, which tastes great! Actually Sindhi-speaking women know very well how to cook fish.” She continues: “Others just know to eat it!”
When asked whether she has ever cooked or fried a Palla fish, she is quick to say, “Na baba, it contains too many bones.” Then she goes on: “Sometimes I wonder how Sindhi people cook and eat Palla! Once I cooked a Damra and one of its bones got stuck in my throat. I had to go to the ENT specialist to get it removed,” she says. Talking about the Khaga she says, “It is good when cooked in curry, as it contains very few bones and everybody can eat it without fear.”
Then there is Haseena Khatoon: she is very fond of Palla fish, but simply cannot afford to buy it. “Palley jehri ka machhi konhey”, she says – there is no fish like Palla. “Damra is good too, but it cannot be eaten as an alternate to Palla. Khaga is good, too, and tastes great when cooked in curry. But Khaga should be of a good size, otherwise it won’t taste nearly as good.”
Sindhi Hindus also eat fish and are also very fond of the Palla and Damra. I talk to Prakash about this. He mentions the Hindu festival of Shiv Ratri. He tells me that in the early morning of the Shiv Ratri, Hindus would take a dip in the river and then go to the market to buy Palla and in this way, he believed, it could indeed be said that the Shiv Ratri and Palla went together.
“Now the traditions have changed a lot due to the cultural influence of Indian television channels. Under that massive influence, our new generation has turned vegetarian,” he says. “But their elders still eat meat and fish.”
He pauses and then adds: “By the way, today I went to the market to buy a Palla fish, but ran back after the shopkeeper told me its price. My God, I have never dreamt of buying a Palla weighing around one kilogram for Rs. 3,500!”
So now Prakash must make do with the Damra fish. “It is good, because it is always available between Rs. 300 to Rs. 350 per kilogram. In the absence of Palla, we eat Damra and satisfy our taste-buds…”
Sarfaraz Memon is a freelance journalist. He may be reached at memonfraz@gmail.com
