Talpur Tombs of Drigh Bala

Zulfiqar Ali Kalhoro on the fascinating paintings found in a Talpur necropolis

Talpur Tombs of Drigh Bala
The Talpurs remained in the forefront in the army of the Kalhoras (1700-1783) and subsequently succeeded them and established their own dynasty ruling over Sindh from 1783 to 1843. Their rule witnessed the construction of large number of tombs scattered all over Sindh. Nonetheless a majority of Drigh Bala tombs were erected during the Kalhora period. The cemetery is spread over a vast area and is locally known as ‘Mir Allahyar Ja Quba’, located about 25 km west of Johi, Dadu district, at Drigh Bala village. There are at least twelve tombs in the cemetery, of which five are prominent and belong to Mir Allahyar Khan Talpur, Mir Chhuto Khan, Mir Manik Khan and Mir Suleiman Khan, Khair Muhammad Jamali and “Ghot and Kunwar” (bridegroom and bride). About the tomb of Ghot and Kunwar, people hold that both were killed on the first night of their marriage in battle near the Drigh Bala and were buried in the cemetery, hence it became known as the tomb of “Ghot and Kunwar.” The tomb of Mir Allahyar Khan, which dominates the adjoining tombs, was built in 1731 AD. It is a very huge tomb and carries a very interesting array of panels that contain intriguing battle scenes and feature men and women sitting and talking with their attendants. Some of the depictions of women are very well done.

The most impressive panel depicting battle scenes is found on the western wall of Mir Allahyar Khan’s tomb. There is a large horizontal panel depicting folk romances and battle scenes. In fact, this is the most impressive panel representing battle scenes. Two royal figures are shown fighting each other while sitting on their elephants. The elephant on the right hand appears small as compared to the one on the right, which is big – indicating the power and authority of the royal figure. The painting may represent the battle of Samityani or Sanni. The battle of Samityani was fought between the Panhwars and Kalhoras, in which Mian Yar Muhammad Kalhoro defeated Qaisar Khan Panhwar who had occupied the former’s territories while he was away in Kalat. When Mian Yar Muhammad Kalhoro returned from Kalat with the army of his disciples, he recaptured the regions which were under the dominion of his brother Mian Din Muhammad Kalhoro and defeated Qaisar Khan Panhwar in the battle of Samityani. The painting may depict the battle of Samityani in which two royal figures, Qaisar Khan Panhwar and Mian Yar Muhammad Kalhoro on the elephants, are shown facing each other on the battle ground with Mian Yar Muhammad Kalhoro aiming his spear at Qaisar Khan. Moreover, Qaisar Khan is shown surrounded by the troops of Mian Yar Muhammad Kalhoro.

Painting of the Suhni-Mehar romance in the tomb of Mir Allahyar


The second possibility is that it may represent the battle of Sanni which was fought between the troops of Mian Noor Muhammad Kalhoro and Abdullah Khan Brohi at Sanni near the present Gandava in Jhal Magsi district. Abdullah Khan Brohi was killed by the troops of the Kalhoras in the battle of Sanni. Therefore, the painting in tomb of Mir Allahyar Khan Talpur may represent either battle of Samitiyani or Sanni. Mir Allahyar Khan Talpur had actively taken part in the battle of Samityani. However, he did not fight in the battle of Sanni because he was too old to take part at that time.

It is more likely that the battle of Samityani is depicted in the tomb of Mir Allahyar Khan.

A majority of the depictions have suffered defacing by the local people. Moreover, nature has also rendered a great damage to some of the panels due to the seepage of the rainwater infiltrating the tomb. Now sludge appears on all the depictions on the western wall of the tomb. Another distinctive feature of painting in Mir Allahyar Khan’s tomb is the representation of an interesting creature – probably a jackal-headed man, reminiscent of the ancient Egyptian deity Anubis. In ancient Egyptian beliefs, Anubis is the Lord of the Dead. These representations might have reached Sindh through Arabic and Persian literature. In the tomb of Mir Allahyar Khan are depictions of a pair of fighting Anubis-like figures! They are also shown with long tails. Representations of monkeys with loincloths are also depicted jumping on trees in the tomb of Mir Manik Khan Talpur.

Domed ceiling in a tomb at the necropolis of Mir Allahyar


Two fighting nobles on elephants

Another distinctive feature of painting in Mir Allahyar Khan’s tomb is the representation of an interesting creature – probably a jackal-headed man, reminiscent of the ancient Egyptian deity Anubis

Mir Allahyar Khan Talpur occupies a distinguished place in the annals of  Kalhora and Talpur history for his contribution to the field of architecture, art and irrigation in Kachho (Dadu). During the rule of Mian Noor Muhammad Kalhoro, Mir Allahyar took part in a number of military expeditions of the Kalhoras and became victorious in each of expeditions. He constructed a many small fortress and some buildings for his residence in Khirthar of which some still stand, struggling against the vagaries of weather. The fort that he built in Drigh Bala still exists, though in ruins. Local people hold that he also excavated some channels for  irrigation and brought uncultivated land under cultivation. He enjoyed a very prestigious position in the court of the Kalhoras due to his administrative capabilities.

He left behind three issues, Faqir Masu, Mir Jado Khan and Mir Rajo who later on shifted from Kachho to present district of Mirpurkhas. The tombs of his three sons are located in the Chitori graveyard in Mirpurkhas.

Figures depicted in the tomb of Mir Allahyar, reminscent of the Egyptian god Anubis


Warriors on horses

The painting may depict the battle of Samityani in which two royal figures, Qaisar Khan Panhwar and Mian Yar Muhammad Kalhoro on elephants, are shown facing each other on the battle ground – with Mian Yar Muhammad Kalhoro aiming his spear at Qaisar Khan

To north of the tomb of Mir Allah Yar lies the tomb of Mir Chhuto Khan Talpur which is noted for beautiful murals chiefly depicting floral designs. Majority of tombs in the necropolis are decorated with floral designs. To northern side of the necropolis exists the dilapidated tomb of Mir Manik Khan, the father of Mir Allahyar Khan and Mir Chhuto. Mir Manik Khan died in 1689. Apart from Mir Allahyar and Mir Chutto, his two other sons Mir Saindad and Mir Tharo are also buried in the necropolis. There are two graves inside the tomb of Mir Manik Khan Talpur, of which one belongs to Mir Manik Khan and the other is said to be of his father Mir Suleiman alias Kaku Khan. The dome of the tomb has caved in, exposing the paintings to sunlight that has deteriorated the most of paintings. Nevertheless, it has survived some of paintings of which the monkey depictions are noteworthy. In addition to these, the grave of Mir Shaho Khan is also located in the cemetery. Mir Shaho Khan was the ancestor of Shahwani section of Talpurs whose descendants laid foundation of Tando Muhammad Khan town.

The tombs of Mir Allahyar Khan are being preserved by the Endowment Fund Trust for the Preservation of the Heritage of Sindh (EFT). This necropolis has much potential for tourism. The Directorate of Antiquities and Archaeology- Culture, Tourism, Antiquities & Archives Department, Government of Sindh and Endowment Fund Trust for the Preservation of the Heritage of Sindh (EFT) should jointly chalk out a strategy to promote Mir Allahyar’s necropolis as potential tourist site in Johi tehsil. With the promotion and arrivals of the tourists in Drigh Bala, Johi, it will definitely improve the socio-economic condition of the local community.

The author is an anthropologist. He may be contacted at: zulfi04@hotmail.com

The author is an anthropologist. He tweets at: @Kalhorozulfiqar