Many Nais (hill streams) originate from the Kirthar mountain range in Sindh except for Gaj which comes from Balochistan across a very narrow gorge of Thak. The Gaj Valley is situated 38 km from Johi tehsil, Dadu district, Sindh. The Shakloi is a tributary of Nai Gaj. The Gaj valley was ancient route followed by the travelers, traders and pilgrims. Through the Lorah Pass (Lak) people carried out their trade. This route is still used by the Sindhis, Baloch and Brohis.
The waters of Khuzadar drain into Nai Gaj as well as those of other tributaries. The northern and southern valleys or dhoras (tributaries) of Gaj valley were also routes connecting the respective valleys themselves. These dhoras or major tributaries and dhoris (subsidiaries) of Gaj valley are still inhabited.
Engraving of a Stupa
Shakloi Dhoro, a southern tributary of Gaj, was an ancient route used not only by pilgrims, traders and travelers but also by shepherds. The shepherds still move along this route to spend their summers on the Gorkah Hill, which is the highest peak around the Gaj valley.
The rock art site of Shakloi, locally called “Chiti” meaning “engravings”, is located 2 km south of Nai Gaj. The engravings from Chiti rock art site are of the prehistoric, Bronze Age and historic periods. They are found on a sandstone rock formation.
Of all the animal images, most amazing are the petroglyphs of the zebu or bull. There are ten bulls engraved on the southern panel of the cliff and the rock outcrop which is situated south-east of the cliff.
There are ancient and modern hunting and combat scenes on the cliff. There are two depictions of archers who are shown pointing their arrows at an ibex. Close to this image is a male figure holding a spear in his hand with extended arms. This figure appears to be possibly of the Bronze Age. On extreme north of the cliff are ibex carvings. Close to them is another figure of an archer who is also shown aiming his arrow at the ibex.
Another View of Thak Kumb
Some petroglyphs of the modern period show male figures hunting ibexes with guns and rifles. In some petroglyphs only guns are shown aimed at ibexes. There are many such images found on both northern and southern panels.
Engravings of a ritual dance are found on the southern panel. There are three rows of dancers who are shown dancing before verandah-like structures which possibly represent their villages, settlements or dwellings. On the top, there is an artificial verandah-like structure. On the left of this verandah-like structure are two male figures.
In the middle row of the dancers is the prominent figure of a male on the left with a circular body and visible genitals. He appears to be either chief of the clan or a deity. Five dancers are shown before the chief. The fifth figure on the right holds the tail of a feline creature and close to this is perhaps a figure or a container with verandah-like structure on the right.
A depiction of a ritual dance
There are twelve stupa images found on the cliff and rock outcrop. On the cliff are a total of ten stupa images. The first stupa on the southern panel is three storied with a dome topped by harmika, topping and single decorated streamer on left side. The streamer shows six circular shapes and a rhombus-shaped design. There is a small stupa close to this with two storeys topped by a dome and finial. Another tower-like stupa has seven storeys with the anda (dome) topped by harmika, finial and streamer. The four lower storeys are of equal size whereas the three upper storeys are in diminishing size. There is another stupa close by - an irregular design due to the lack of space available, because there is sudden crack on the cliff. It is a simple seven-storey structure topped by a finial.
Just close to the irregular stupa image are two stupas engraved together. These are simple two storey structures topped by finials.
The stupa rests on a rectangular platform with six storeys in diminishing size topped by anda, harmika, finial and decorative streamer. The streamer has 14 ornaments. This stupa is executed with a sharp metal chisel. Similar types of stupas are found in many rock art sites of Gaj and Makhi valleys. Put differently, stupas of these types are only peculiar to the valleys of Gaj. They are not found elsewhere in the valleys of Kirthar.
Loi Dan is a small dhori (a tributary of Shakloi dhoro) which lies 2 km west of the Chiti rock art site. The Loi Dan rock art site is noted for prehistoric petroglyphs of bisons and historic engravings of felines, camels, riders, structures and cut-marks.
There are three images of a bison which are executed on a cliff facing north. They are shown in a wild style. The discovery of these petroglyphs is testimony to the fact that this extinct animal was once important in the fauna of Kirthar.
There is an interesting engraving of a structure/shrine at Loi Dan. It is a square structure with an entrance on the east. Four decorated finials with three tree-branch-shaped designs adorn the roof. Three individual figures are shown inside the structure. Two figures are standing close to the northern and southern walls respectively. The figure close to the northern wall is holding a whip. The third figure is shown standing under a niche. This is perhaps a shrine or temple dedicated to three deities. The legend of three deities is also depicted on coins from the era of Huviskha, a Kushan ruler. The gold coins found from Gandhara depict three deities Skanda-Kumaro, Bizago and Mahaseno. The last, Mahaseno, is shown standing under a canopy or niche flanked by Skando-Kumaro. The engravings at the Loi Dan site possibly represent the legend of the three deities of the Kushan period. The Kushans ruled over upper Sindh from 78 to 175 AD.
The petroglyphs of Sakey Dand site are located in upper Shakloi or Gurban Dhoro. The engravings are found on both the cliff and boulders. On the eastern cliff are the ancient petroglyphs of animals, prominent amongst which is the figure of a unicorn with an elongated body and short tail.
The Loi Dan Rock art site also contains splendid petroglyphs of religious structures, of which the shrine/temple with three figures possibly of Skanda-Kumaro, Bizago and Mahaseno are quite prominent. This shrine and stupas may have been engraved during the reign of the Buddhist Rais of Sindh (499 - 641 AD).
The author is an anthropologist and has authored four books: ‘Symbols in Stone: The Rock Art of Sindh’, ‘Perspectives on the art and architecture of Sindh’, ‘Memorial Stones: Tharparkar’ and ‘Archaeology, Religion and Art in Sindh’. He may be contacted at: zulfi04@hotmail.com
