When Eman Bachani was nearing the end of her studies at the University of Toronto, Canada, the future seemed daunting. “I recall being buried in essays and job applications,” she says,“and running from one networking session to another.” But, in the midst of final-year madness, Eman dreamt of entrepreneurial success.
“I used to find solace in reading about people who had ‘made it’. Most of those people happened to carve their own path, which piqued my interest in having something I could call my own.” Building on this interest, and inspired by her own Pakistani heritage, Eman launched Meraki Design House, an e-boutique which puts a decidedly South Asian spin on shoes.
Fusing Aesthetics
Anyone who has grown up wearing khussas and jootis will look at many Meraki designs as emblems of nostalgia. But, the Westward nod is also impossible to miss. In fact, each pair of Meraki shoes is an eclectic mix of Eastern and Western influences.
As Eman explains it, this fusion was at the heart of what she had envisioned.
“My interest was strongly fixated on the cultural aspect of it,” she says,“having lived in different parts of the world before moving to Toronto. I wanted to bring all the local handcrafted specialty items that I’ve collected over the years to center stage and give consumers choices they wouldn’t find at a mall.”
The goal for Meraki, then, was to offer customers a look that was unique enough to accomplish this. Simultaneously though, she wanted to ensure that her products worked for an unfamiliar audience. In her own words, “For us it’s important to stay true to our ethos of working with Eastern crafts and redesigning them for the Western audience.” And hence spawned a pair of espadrilles adorned by an ajrak design and a shoe that looks a lot like a jooti, except that it is constructed using denim.
Eman Bachani
Artisans and Crafts
But the aesthetics are just part of what makes Meraki Pakistani at heart, or rather what give it a Pakistani soul. That is down to Eman’s commitment to working with artisans. Following the fast-fashion frenzy that swept the world in a whirlwind of Zara and Forever 21, many Pakistani artisans found their crafts under siege. In view of this, some of Pakistani fashion’s heftiest names, like Rizwan Beyg, have been trying to support local artisans. And Eman Bachani’s name can be added to that list – albeit her audience is predominantly international.
As she explains it, “Working with artisan partners is key for us because we want to make sure that we are supporting someone’s craft and passion whilst remaining disengaged from the business of fast fashion and we make sure that holds true in all areas of operation – it’s half the reason we started our journey!” She goes on to emphasise that part of Meraki’s mission is to allow artisans a lucrative alternative to factory work, which many from their communities have had to resort to, emphasising, “We want to give skilled craftsmen the opportunity to make a livelihood by capitalising on the things they do best.”
The Diversity Debate
Allowing her primarily Western audience to meld, what she calls, “cultural and conventional fashion” has garnered Eman and Meraki a loyal fan-following. But she also wants her brand to help alter people’s perception about Eastern fashion. Meraki are not content with putting some gota work on a pair of flats.
Instead they incorporate various aspects of Pakistani textiles, crafts and aesthetics into a product that can be universally appealing. “A huge chunk of our customers had never been exposed to the side of South Asian aesthetic/design that was subtle and classy rather than being bling,” says Eman, “We definitely wanted to set the record straight in terms of the diversity of handwork, patterns, and prints that hail from the region.”
Appreciating the range of Pakistani art and craft, and the need to reach a wider audience, Meraki shoes are classified into a ‘basic’ and a ‘festive’ range. The former emphasises function, and while it still maintains their unique look, the simpler aesthetic ensures that it appeals to a wider audience. The latter, on the other hand, showcases some of the region’s more exuberant flourishes. Mirror work, embroidery, zardozi, everything is fair game for the festive range.
Home Away from Home
Pakistan’s fashion industry has been leapfrogging over obstacles for the past couple of years. But Meraki is an indication that this positive movement isn’t limited to the local arena. Pakistan has a vibrant artistic and, dare I say, fashionable heritage. And Eman Bachani’s creative initiative proves that this heritage can appeal to the world.
