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Home TFT E-Paper Archives

Mansehra’s Shiv temple

Asif Nawaz by Asif Nawaz
August 14, 2015 - Updated on September 21, 2021
in TFT E-Paper Archives, Features, Main Slider

Bell at the temple

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Despite Hindus being Pakistan’s largest religious minority, their presence is conspicuously marred by the more evident Christian minority. The reason being concentration of Hindus in the Southern provinces, and perhaps their low-profile in other areas, deliberately maintained in order to avoid persecution.

In light of the threat to their existence, and unfortunate attacks at some temples, visiting a Hindu temple is denied to most Muslims in Pakistan – especially in the cities. The temples in towns and hamlets are way more lax when it comes to admission rights. This marks another contradiction with the Christians: you can find a major Church in almost every city of Pakistan, and entry for Muslims is way more relaxed.

Ganesha
Ganesha

In my city, Abbottabad, there are two functioning Christian churches, while not a single temple. Therefore, I was extremely surprised when I came to know about the Shiv Temple in Chitti Gatti – at a distance of about 15 kilometres from Mansehra – which is not only an emblem of Hindus’ survival in the area but also has immense historical importance.

The village of Chitti Gatti is nestled between swathes of fields and a river. The temple is elevated just besides the main Karakoram Highway. At first glance the building is a simple structure, and you can easily mistake it for a mosque (an attempt to avoid unwanted attention). However, it’s the interior of the temple that highlights its maintenance and houses the 3,000-year-old Shiva Lingam – the oldest in Pakistan and arguably one of the oldest Hindu structures in the whole region. It is a site held holy by many Hindus, which witnesses an annual festival at Shivraatri, around February, where a number of Hindus from Pakistan, as well as abroad, pay a pilgrimage.

Calendar with multiple Hindu deities
Calendar with multiple Hindu deities

You can easily mistake it for a mosque

The temple remains locked otherwise, since there are no Hindus in the adjoining areas to visit regularly – but a visit is possible for Hindus whenever they come. It is open to others as well after preliminary identity checks. The caretaker of the temple is welcoming and facilitates your visit. Moreover, a constable of Khyber Pakhtunkhwa police always remains deployed at the temple. The number of security personnel is greatly augmented at times of festivity.

Entry to the temple is via a second storey, since the locked ground floor basically contains the mound that the Shiva Lingam is perched on top of. According to a legend the Lingam emerged from the ground spontaneously thousands of years ago, and has continued in this state. The inside of the temple essentially comprises a hall; that contains impressive statues of the Hindu deity Ganesha and Krishna’s cow, Nandi. Besides these, there are various posters and hangings of others including Shiv, Parvati, Kali and those of Hindu local organizations and groups.

The temple
The temple

For most part, the place is clean, well-kept and spacious yet quite simple in appeal. The Shiva Lingam, however, is present within yet another room bound by glass present in the center of the main hall. Access to this, then, is limited only to the Hindus. The key to the glass chamber is kept by the Shiv Temple Society.

While pointing to a burnt patch on the ground, the constable narrated stories of various Hindu families that visit frequently. He also narrated the tale of a pre-partition brawl in the area between local Hindus and Muslims.

“The Muslims attacked the Shiva Lingam, and were adamant on uprooting the Lingam”, he said. “However, no matter what they did, they couldn’t move it an inch!” Marks of a struggle atop the Lingam established his story. Thankfully though, there have been absolutely no untoward incidents in the temple after Partition.

Traditional earthen pots for prayers
Traditional earthen pots for prayers

The caretaker of the temple is welcoming and facilitates your visit

The ostensible threats were denied were by those in-charge, and the constable expressed the stern will of local authorities to protect the temple. “Yeh aqliaton ki jaga hai, yahan kuch ho gaya tou poora mulk hil jayega!” (This is a place of minorities, if something happens here, it will shake the whole country).

It is experiences like these that revive your faith in this country in strange ways. While the temples in the secular, Sufi-inspired Sindh are being attacked lately, the Shiv Temple in this relatively troubled province of mine remains excessively secure.

Shiva Lingam
Shiva Lingam

tft-27-p-16-e

The Muslims wanted to uproot the Lingam

Also welcome were the comments of our hosts. Both were Muslims, and no ill-felt comment was made. There was no Hindu-bashing, and no conceited contempt was found in their words. “They are good people. They believe what they think is right, and it’s up to them. Whenever they come, they sit with us and talk. They are pleasant. Yes, they don’t eat what we cook and vice versa. But we drink water together.”

A family of liberalism gone awry, and some segments of media might tell you otherwise, but this is as true (and warming) as it gets.

However, not everything is smooth sailing. This came out a bit too evidently when I talked to Mr Darshan Lal from the Shiv Temple Society – a person largely responsible for all the major matters of the temple, and the de facto caretaker. The absolute apathy of the government towards the site was a constant complaint. Indeed, most of the renovation and construction work at the temple is brought about by the funding of Hindu groups, occasionally aided by sympathetic Muslims.

The prayer thaali
The prayer thaali
Krishna’s cow, Nandi
Krishna’s cow, Nandi

“The Hindus give us something whenever they come. Some educated Muslims also pitch in some contributions at times”, said Mr Lal. The land of the temple is yet another pressing issue. The temple stands on disputed property, and the claimants of the land are many. Mr Lal admitted having written letters to the government for solving this dispute, to no avail.

He also complained about there being absolutely no facilities for those who come for a visit (something I am a witness of). He pointed towards the absence of washrooms, availability of food and any place to stay. This, he said, creates problems, especially for families. All the visitors have to adjust themselves somehow on the ground, and bring/cook their own food.

tft-27-p-16-j

Shiva Lingam
Shiva Lingam

Mr Lal was very vocal about the negligence of the government, saying that the government does not do anything at all for the temple. He made an appeal for help – particularly the educated community that understands the importance and worth of this national and religious heritage. (The Shiv Temple Society is based in Abbottabad – and details can be provided to those willing to help).

Moreover, conspiracy theories are also afloat about the government of India expressing a lot of interest in the Shiva Lingam, and some talks underway of selling it – which, honestly, seems a bit too dramatic and far-fetched.

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Chitti Gatti
Chitti Gatti

The Shiva Temple at Chitti Gatti might not be the most impressive Hindu temple there is, but is a pleasant and much-needed respite from the usual humdrum. An island of peace in a sea of chaos and half-baked sensationalism, it reminds you of the ideas of equality and brotherhood that this country was built upon, and strikes just about the right chords.

Accordingly, it then restores your faith in the promise of this country. Despite all the problems the temple faces, something tells me the Quaid would’ve been proud – because as far at this Shiva Temple is concerned, you are definitely “free to go to your temples”! It’s for us to make sure this freedom is upheld.

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Comments 11

  1. Gary says:
    7 years ago

    “Krishna’s cow, Nandi”

    Lol. That’s a bull not a cow. Temples venerating Shiva display stone images of a seated Nandi(bull), generally facing the main shrine. The bull Nandi is Shiva’s primary vehicle and is the principal gana (follower) of Shiva.

  2. observer says:
    7 years ago

    **impressive statues of the Hindu deity Ganesha and Krishna’s cow, Nandi**

    Krishna’s Cow Nandi???
    OUCH. That hurt.

    Nandi is not a Cow but a BULL.

    Nandi is Shiva’s mount.

    Krishna has nothing to do with Nandi.

    Next time ask, or just Google.

  3. David Salmon says:
    7 years ago

    I hope the author is correct in his assertion that the single constable is sufficient for security (“excessively secure”). After this publicity, it seems to me rather more likely that some jihadist will try to blow the 3,000-year-old lingam apart.

  4. wg cdr (retd ) Ramayabalachandran says:
    7 years ago

    The matter to be appreciated is not Nandi or Bull. But the last two paragraphs. we are experts in finding faults. that is why the heat is always on.

  5. Kishan Chand says:
    7 years ago

    I am sad to see the comments above. An article in good faith has been written and it should be appreciated by all. A mistake here and there should be let go and the spirit of the article should be assessed/appreciated and praised.

    Thanks for bringing this temple to the fore, author.

  6. Muhammed Mushir says:
    7 years ago

    Guys, instead of trying to find faults with the author’s knowledge, you should pitch in where the Pakistani government is failing, in financing the temple’s renovation.

    Dear Mr Asif Nawaz,
    Thanks for this informative piece. Could you also post the details of the society and how funds can be provided by those willing ?

    • Muhammad Asif Nawaz says:
      7 years ago

      If you could please leave me a message at https://www.facebook.com/aassiiiff
      Thank you!

  7. Gau Nandini says:
    7 years ago

    Thanks for the article and the good message. Tragic to see the condition of Pakistan’s original religion and culture. Pakistanis will one day come home to it as they shed off Arab imperialist ideology and rediscover their original identity.

  8. Muhammad Asif Nawaz says:
    7 years ago

    Thank you guys for the feedback. And all my apologies for the Nandi part – solely my mistake, missed out on correction in the first draft. Also, all those interested in raising funds for the temple please leave me a message on Facebook https://www.facebook.com/aassiiiff or twitter https://twitter.com/asifnz and we’ll take it from there. Thanks!

  9. Deepa says:
    7 years ago

    rather than getting lost in pointing out the inaccuracies in information here, I would prefer to look at the fact that there are people in Pakistan who care about minorities! We only get to see one side of the story this side of the border, so this is a refreshing read. Have forwarded this to my brothers, and am waiting on what they have to say as well! 🙂

  10. Calwiyn says:
    6 years ago

    So heartening to see that people of Pakistan taking care of their Hindu brothers & sisters. Thanks to the author to highlight small fragments of the country’s rich & colorful culture and heritage. At these times when the nation and the region is troubled with so much to be sad and depressed about, such journalism provides a welcome whiff of fresh air of Humanity and brotherhood.

    Indeed, as several pointed out that its Shiva’s bull Nandi, but I think that is an unintentional error.

    Good story!

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